Day 392: Tongariro Alpine Crossing

Highlight:

Quiet. So quiet. After hanging out at Ketetahi in the afternoon and then walking in the opposite direction from the stream of people completing the crossing. The contrast with the buzzing car park and busy track was instant. By the time I reached the place where the Ketetahi hut once was, the crowds had thinned. I wouldn't see anyone else until I got to Mangatepopo. The crossing was so calm, there was no wind, no sound, everything was still (apart from me). I took in this moment knowing this is far from most peoples experience of the crossing.

Last time I was here (when Trent and I did the Northern Circuit in 2016) I had likened it to a mall. A constant flow of people, and you just get stuck in the train. This time it was just me in this vast landscape.

Challenge:

Where to camp? With the sun due to set before I reached Mangatepopo I kept my focus to get down of the technical sections. I counted the marker posts as I past them.

• Tahi
• Tahi, rua
• Tahi, rua, toru
• Tahi, rua, toru, whā
• Tahi, rua, toru, whā, rima

I recall, and could see a wide flat track leading towards the hut. After I descended the Devils Stair case, I knew that was the worst of it. I stopped and used the long drop. The signage in the loo said it was 4km, a hour to Mangatepop. Yeah, I could push on and make it there. Rather than trying to find a suitable spot for a tent 500m of the track (as this is part of a Great Walk). I popped some pain relief and put my headlamp in my short pocket to have on the ready. I didn't need it, until I got to camp and was setting up the tent.

Learning:

I rested in the shade before starting the crossing. Feet elevated, as they have started to swell along with the blisters. I new Trent hadn't started the crossing until late afternoon. After already walking 24km, I was going to do the same. Sit out the heat of the day, and wait until some of the foot traffic on the track reduced.

I recalled Trent's account of the crossing, was that it was super easy, the DOC times were super over estimated for Te Araroa walkers. He had rated it as a 5km hour track. I had in my mind that it had taken him 3 hours.

3 hours! whatever. I was angry. Why so easy for you Trent?

• Your long legs.
• Trail fitness, from walking the pass 4 months.
• Fresh legs from the short days beforehand.

I would not be surprised if it took me longer than 3 hours to get to the Ketetahi shelter. My feet where burning. This was much slower than 5km/h.

Okay I later confirmed it took Trent 4 hours. I must of had the harder direction!

Summary: